Wednesday, January 23, 2019

getting here, day one - Zocolo, day two - walking and shopping

We made it without any catastrophes.  I lucked out in Vancouver when they called for people to check their carry on luggage.  So, I didn't have to lug my big backpack all over hell and half acres.  The overnight flight was a bit of a slog but it was fine. I watched Crazy Rich Asians followed by a couple of hours of gravol and free rum induced sleep.  Then a four hour layover in Mexico City, a quick hop to Oaxaca and a taxi to our apartment.

Waiting in Victoria Airport
Mexico City is so big, we flew over it forever before getting to the airport



Mexico city airport is FREEZING!

Flying into Oaxaca is beautiful, all rolling hills and farmland


We arrived at the apartment and it isn't quite as shown. Not bad but each room has a double bed instead of a double and two singles.  They'll change out the  beds when my new guests arrive.  I think the five apartments shown on airbnb are somewhat interchangeable.  You book Natalia but get Margarita (or whatever).

Then it was down to the business of setting up apartment.  First, water.  I bought a garafond from the family who run this place.  Then we went in search of groceries.  We found a market which of course here means tiny stalls and unrefrigerated meat.  We skipped the meat, I have to work Joe and Carolyn up to that level of Mexico, but we bought fruit & veggies (MANGOS!!!, AVOCADOS!!!), tortillas and some Oaxacan cheese.  And three kinds of fresh salsa.  And coffee.  

This is where we bought our fruit and veg. 
She never got off the phone the whole time.
Came back here for lunch.  I made quesadillas.  (Oaxacan cheese makes the best quesadillas).  And then we headed into downtown and the Zocolo which is the main square.  Even on a Tuesday at 4 in the afternoon, it was a busy place.  Lots of people selling stuff, food carts, restaurants, churches (of course).  Carolyn and Joe are not shoppers so hanging out with them is going to save me some money.  We wandered a bit and sat a bit.  But, no sleep the night before meant we were all pretty bagged so we headed home around 6.  



My rule is always, stay awake until 8pm in any new city, no matter the time zone or how onerous the trip. I may not have quite made it.  J & C went to bed at 7.  I went to bed around 7:45 and read.  I turned out my light at 7:58 but I don't think I was still awake at 8.  I think that still falls within the rule. 

I slept really well that night.  Our apartment is surprisingly not hot (I won't go so far as cool).  I woke up at 4am and ignored that and slept again until 7.  Nothing like a good 11 hours.

Eggs for breakfast.  Then I somehow convinced C & J to follow me to Chedraui.  Val and I used to love Chedraui (Supermarket) in Ciudad Del Carmen when we lived down there so I always look for an opportunity to visit one.  

I dutifully wrote down the directions and we headed out.  Regular readers of my travel blogs will know where this is going.  We walked and walked and never found the street we were supposed to turn on.  That, of course, did not stop me from turning on some random unmarked street.  C & J, being far more sensible than me, decided it was time for me to ask someone.  She looked at me like we were crazy, no Chedraui around here.  Next guy, nope, it's a million miles away.  

So, we ended up at another market, buying fruit from old ladies sitting on the ground - just like Safeway.  10 000 steps.

This lady was very nice.  When we bought avocados and garlic,
she said we just need lime to make guacamole (I think). 
I also managed to get some hanging meat - chorizo sausage
for our eggs which we forgot to buy
We went home.  Joe looked up the actual directions to Chedraui while we ate lunch.  I turned right when I should have turned left.  Pretty standard for me.  Joe was keen to try again.  He is looking for whiskey.  So, off we went again.  Carolyn, probably wisely, stayed home.

This time we made it.  Shopped a bit.  Bought some more food.  We should be set for a while.  Joe ended up buying his whiskey at OXXO so he didn't have to carry it so far.  Home again.  20 000 steps and an impressive sunburn on my ankles. 

A terrible picture of Chedraui (for Val)
After a wee siesta, we headed back to the Zocolo for dinner.  But it started raining fairly soon after we left so we ended up nipping into a coffee shop and having sandwiches for dinner. Not exactly the most exciting first restaurant meal in Mexico.  It stopped raining and we eventually made it downtown.  



We stopped and listened to a live band and watched the people dancing
Then C & J, having learned nothing over the last 12 hours, followed me to the Monte Alban ticket booth, down some dark and empty roads.  I'm sure Carolyn did not love that but, trooper that she is, she came along.  But the booth was closed.  We will just show up tomorrow and buy whatever is leaving next.  

Dark street

Selling drawings 
Joe and Carolyn in Oaxaca
Then I led the way home with only a minor, multiblock detour.  I tried to tell them to never trust my directions but either they didn't believe me or decided I was still better than nothing (wrong!).  We were literally standing next to our building and I said it's on the right.  But it was RIGHT there, on the LEFT.  I am pretty sure this has finally convinced Joe to take directional charge in all future endeavours.  30 000 steps.  

It is past bed time so just a last couple of thoughts.  My Spanish is getting us by.  I am falling right back into life living in Mexico.  I love it.  

Joe and Carolyn figured out how to turn on the hot water.  We all had a shower before that happened.  I was willing to just live with cold showers since that is just normal, but J & C assumed this was not normal and they were right.  

Tomorrow we head to Monte Alban.  

Monday, January 21, 2019

Packing etc.


We leave today so it must be time to pack.  Turn on 'Eye of a Tiger', crank the volume and get ready for a packing montage!

Throw everything on the spare bed for a couple of weeks
Time to get serious, bags removed from pile, sort stuff
Cube up!
Done, one carry on, one personal bag
Me, when it all fit and the bag zipped.  VICTORY!

Ok, so I'm a bit over limit.  Carry on is supposed to be 18 kg, mine is 20.  Personal bag is supposed to be 3 kg, mine is 8, actually probably more since I haven't added my purse and camera.  hmm.  Lucky it isn't Air Canada. 

Update,  I took out that skirt, one book, a shirt (I'll wear a fourth layer on the plane).  That probably only equals less than one kg but it is all about the 'variance' of the scales at the check in counter (in case they make me weigh in).  Wish me luck.  

I'm sure I have lots of other stuff to update but I can't think of anything.  

One last thought before I go though.  I read over my first posts and remembered this trip all started with my wonderful Aunt Marilyn planning her family trip.  Well, I spent this weekend at her memorial.  She didn't get to go on that trip with her kids.  This makes me especially grateful that I get to take another trip with my mom.  Spend time with the special people in your lives, folks, it doesn't last forever.  

See you in a couple of days, beyond a couple of borders.  


Friday, January 11, 2019

Well, this isn't good

Gas Shortage in Mexico:
https://www.cnn.com/2019/01/11/americas/mexico-gasoline-shortage/index.html


(I love how this situation massively & negatively affects the people and economy of an entire country but the american news has to spend multiple paragraphs on how this is going to mean no avocados for super bowl.  Now that is the REAL tragedy).


Wednesday, January 9, 2019

Short Scrubba update.

I tried my Scrubba.  I put in two tea towels of moderate filthiness and two dish wash clothes of high, sat in the sink too long, grossness.  First, twist the top tighter than I did, I got a complementary floor wash, courtesy of me, with my Scrubba wash.  A loose top leaks!

Ick!

I used hot water which may or may not be available in future travels but I assume will be available in Oaxaca. 

A bit o'soap.  A couple minutes of foot scrubba-ing, a cold water rinse,

and boom, wet tea towels.  

Wait a day.  Boom, dry and clean kitchen clothes.  Equally as clean as if i had thrown them in the wash.
Verdict:  it'll do.  It's definitely better than using a shallow hotel bathroom sink.  

Saturday, January 5, 2019

To Do and/or Done

Things are moving along.  I got my scrubba.  I haven't tried it yet but I probably should.

I bought and took my Dukorol.  Still gross. Hopefully still effective.

I booked two days with a bird guide during my no visitors week.  I am pretty excited about that.  His name is Roque Antonio.  Here is our two day adventure as described in Roque Antonio's email:

Good to hear from you ! 
Yes !, the Birding tour is confirmed for February 3&4, On day # 1 we will meet at 6:00AM, At your hotel, Today we will do an introduction to the Birds of central Oaxaca,  we will first Birdwatch at valley thorn forest in search for the specialties of this area including species as: Dusky & Beautiful Hummingbird,  Bridled Sparrow,  Gray breasted Woodpecker,  Boucard's Wren,  White throated Towhee etc. 
Approx noon, we plan to be at high elevation pine/oak forest for lunch & continue Birdwatching at this elevation. 
The activity is all day. 
The return to Oaxaca city is after 4:00 PM. 
On Day # 2, we meet at same time 6:00AM, We will do a stop to get a preBirding breakfast to go at the OXXO, this day on AM & PM ,we will focus on target species as: Ocellated Thrasher, Slaty & Dwarf Vireo, Oaxaca Sparrow,  Chestnut sided Shrike Vireo,  Dwarf jay etc.
The return to Oaxaca city will be at 4:00PM.
Looking forward to hear from you!
Cheers!

I'm going to pretend a stop at the OXXO means a good day is ahead (basically a 7-11). Because I have no pictures, here is one of the 9000th OXXO being opened in Oaxaca. 



I checked out Aeromexico's baggage info.  I think my backpack will JUST meet the carry on allowance (for size, weight is another matter).  And I am allowed two carry on bags, so this should be a breeze. 

Each piece can measure up to 21.5 x 15.7 x 10 inches (55 x 40 x 25 cm).

Also, Aeromexico only seems to have two prohibited items.  Hoverboards and baby lions.  I JUST meet those restrictions as well (I have a jet pack and a full grown cheetah, those should be OK, right?)



I hemmed some summer clothes, a couple of tank tops (shortened the straps) and a skirt that I may not take and if I do, will never wear. I have also thrown some stuff in the general direction of my bag.  My version of pre-packing.  Gingy-Puss left me one last 'traveling as a cat-owner' goodbye gift before she died.  She puked up a furball on my backpack.  I was kind of sad to wash it away.  

Still left to do: Buy some pesos.  There's probably more than that, but that's all I can think of at the moment that isn't just normal stuff (banking, cleaning) accelerated a bit by the trip. 

Two weeks to go. 

Sunday, December 30, 2018

Planning? Sure, let's call it that...

Really not much to update but I thought I should check in.  Carolyn and Joe and I met at Blue Fox for breakfast and travel discussion.  Mostly breakfast, a bit of travel.

Joe and Carolyn at the Blue Fox 

Mostly me talking about my new 'washing machine'.  Back up a bit.  Carolyn had asked if there is laundry in the room/building.  I assume not (actually, I'm not sure I even checked brb...), nope, no washer.  I emailed the airbnb contact to ask if there is a laundromat nearby.  No response.

I am so used to washing my clothes in bathroom sinks, this wasn't really a consideration for me.  I just figured, if we are lucky, there will be a laundry line for drying on the roof, as per normal Mexico laundry facilities.  I did google laundromats in the near vicinity but there aren't any showing close to the apartment but that doesn't mean much. Most small businesses won't be on google  maps.

But Carolyn's question came to mind as I was poking around amazon for boxing day sales.  I happened upon the 'Scrubba' which is essentially a dry bag with a washboard built into it.  This is something I could have used over the last 10 years!!  I found it on super-sale so I bought one.  It hasn't arrived yet but I am pretty stoked.  Here is the scrubba info, do not look at the price, I DID NOT pay that much!

I did check some Oaxaca websites.  I found a UNESCO biosphere close by that I might want to visit.  Joe seems keen to go too but it would mean renting a car and another hotel/airbnb.  We'll have to see how the logistics work out.  Tehuacan-Cuicatlan Biosphere Reserve.   It looks pretty cool though. Lots of cacti.  Birth place of domesticated maize/corn.   Here are some pictures from this guy's website:




I have also emailed a Oaxaca Birding Tour organization (just today so no response yet) to see if they have a guide or tour available during my five guest-free days.

And other than those somewhat specific searches, I have scanned those 'top 5/8/10/15 things to do in Oaxaca' websites.  Lots of Mole (yes!), Mezcal (sure, why not), and Markets (my weakness, better bring a second bag).  3M isn't just for sticky notes!

It took some doing, but I found the apartment building on Google Street maps and had a look at the street.  Looks good.

 https://goo.gl/maps/TTwkFtqAGWP2
3 weeks to go.  

Monday, November 5, 2018

My spare room is almost full!

I haven't really done any planning yet, although I did buy two new pairs of capri pants from Sally Ann one day (I ripped the bum out of my old pair when I fell on a flower pot while mowing the lawn and didn't realize and proceeded to finish mowing, in public, buses, cars and pedestrians passing, with my capri-free bum on display, but I suppose that is not a Mexico relevant story, but still a good story so here it is...)

When I first mentioned that I was going to Oaxaca, I had a few friends hop on board.  In the planning stages, I was losing track of who was coming when so I created this awesome spread sheet.



So, as you can see, my friends Carolyn and Joe are coming down with me and taking the double bed room for the first 10 days.  Then, I have 5 days on my own.  Then my mom is arriving for most of the last two weeks.  And Shirley, who lives in Mexico now is coming to Oaxaca for a week to visit while my mom is there.  My two bedroom plan is working out exactly as I had hoped.

As you can see, there is still room!

Anyway, that's it for now.  I may do some research/planning after my life settles down (hahahahah, or not).