Birds, the Oaxacan countryside and some farm animals

This post may be exclusively for Paul because it is all about birding but there will be some nice pictures of Oaxacan scenery (and birds) if you carry on.

Let's go back a bit.  When I was still home and planning my vacation, I checked online for a bird guide for Oaxaca.  Roque Antonio Santiago (or just Roque, every birder here knows him or knows of him) came up with excellent reviews.  So, I emailed him and he was available for two of the days that I was on my own, Sunday, Feb 3 & Monday, Feb 4. He sent me an itinerary for the two days and all was great.

Then I went to Sunday Bird Group on my first Sunday here and met a bunch of local birders.  They all agreed Roque was the best.  I mentioned to Francis just as we were leaving that if anyone wanted to join me, I was open for company (especially since the cost was a bit high for my budget -totally worth it but still... I am but a poor traveller).  Francis sent an email to the birding crowd and I spent the next few days trying to keep track of who was interested and could come.  Francis and her husband were going to be out of town, another lady I hadn't met yet, Gail from Victoria, was also leaving for the week, but fortunately, Marilyn that I had met at bird group and whom I knew to be a good birder (certainly better than me) was keen to join.

Side note:  Roque was going to pick me up at 6am.  I forgot to bring an alarm clock so I spent the first week of my trip trying to find an alarm clock (not easy!).  One day, I got turned around (code for lost) and found a clock shop on a side street.  I went in, mimed alarm clock, said the word for cheapest and bought a clock. I tell you this story, not because it is interesting, which it is not, but because I have a picture and you are going to need some variety from birds and mountain ranges.

Ok, back to 6am Sunday.  Roque picked me up and we swung around and picked up Marilyn and then headed to the hills (with a stop at Oxxo for coffee and rice pudding).  In his itinerary, Roque said we would spend the first day getting familiar with local Oaxacan birds.  I know the birding ladies were worried that this would cover only birds they had previously seen, but not so!  Even Marilyn who has been birding here for years found new birds.

We started on a farm (?) at sunrise.  Lots of birds sitting on tops of cactus and scrubs so I was able to get some pictures.  (complete bird list at the bottom of this post)

Yea, the view was ok (!!)

Curved-bill Thrasher

Maybe a Loggerhead Shrike?

my first pee break

White Winged Doves.  The place was lousy with them.

 After the farm, we went up to higher elevations for different birds.

Green Kingfisher

The beautiful and ubiquitous Vermillion Flycatcher 

Kestrel 

Not a bird

I was happy to discover on our road trip that Carolyn and Joe
also yelled out any animal they saw as we passed (Cow!, Horse!), but for
serious birding, I was on my own for farm animal road-identification
SHEEP!

A hummingbird (species?) visiting a blooming yucca (?)

Roque had said we would be out until 4 each day but we didn't get back until after 5 so I was super happy.  Extra birds!  Roque is the kind of guide who is more interested in the satisfaction of his clients than clock watching. If the birding is good, we stick around. 

Next morning, back out a 6am. Another rice pudding stop. This time we started higher into the mountains.  At our first stop, we were looking for the Oaxaca Sparrow.  We saw some brown flashes that might have been but never enough to properly identify.

Marilyn and Roque looking for the elusive Oaxaca Sparrow

The sun comes up over the mountains

 But we did see lots of hummingbirds, orioles (red headed!), etc.  Unfortunately, little birds who flit around and hang out in scrub are hard to photograph.

We just kept going uphill looking for more habitats in different elevations, and therefore more distinct bird species.  Roque has his favourite spots where he knows who hangs out there.

Yea, I don't remember what this is

This guy I remember, elusive little bugger, the Collared Towhee

Lunch (with Coke and Fantas!)

This is the Dwarf Jay habitat.  We found one!

Least Grebe

Two awesome days for sure.  And lots of new birds (life listers), especially the ones endemic to Oaxaca that I NEVER would have found, let alone seen and identified, without Roque.  Seriously, if you are looking for a Oaxacan bird guide, google Roque Antonio Santiago and book him early.   He is worth every penny!

One bird that I had never heard of and have no idea what it even looks like, but that all of the local birders seem to really want to see is the Oscillated Thrasher (I just looked it up, kind of boring but apparently elusive).  We did not see one but like a Vegas gambler in the throws of a winning streak, I felt like it was just the next role of the dice/next birding spot away.

Since Marilyn had paid half, I felt like I got a day for free so I booked Roque for a morning the next day.  When I got home, I realized that mom's flight was going to land at 12:48 so I probably should have cancelled but I was sure I could make it work.  I was pretty wishy-washy about going but that stupid Oscillated Thrasher!.  Anyway, fate stepped in, Roque came to get me at 6 but his car was acting up (battery?) so we decided it was best that since I HAD to be home at a specific time, we would cancel.  But he told me where to find that bird (Monte Alban, where I am going to be anyway!)

So now, the sheets are being washed, la Nina is coming to clean at 10:30, I have dropped my clothes at the lavanderia across the street.  I didn't want to have wet clothes hanging everywhere for la nina and for mom when she arrives.

Now, I just have to figure out how to get to the airport to pick up mom in three hours.

Here is some street art:

Combining my two favourite things!  Chicken art and street art!

Here are my bird lists for my two days with Roque (for anyone who has made it this far and who cares to continue.)

February 3, 2018

Curved-bill Thrasher

Lark Sparrow

Grey-breasted Woodpecker

American Kestrel

Bucard's Wren

Loggerhead Shrike

White-throated Towhee

Cassin's Kingbird

Blue Grosbeak

Rufous-capped Warbler

Indigo Bunting

Common Ground Dove

Blue-grey Gnatcatcher

Vermilion Flycatcher

Bridled Sparrow

House Finch

Lincoln Sparrow

Ladderback Woodpecker

Cinnamon-rumped Seedeater

Black Vulture

Green Heron

Crested Caracara

Western Tanager

Slate-throated Redstart

Tropical Kingbird

Grey Silky-flycatcher

Nashville Warbler

Plumbeous Vireo

Rufous-backed Robin

Great Egret

Cattle Egret

Lesser Egret

Yellow-rumped Warbler

Wilson's Warbler

Black Pheobe

Clay-coloured Robin

Bullock's Oriole

Baltimore Oriole

Summer Tanager

Black-backed, Lesser Goldfinch

Turkey Vulture

Dusky Hummingbird

Zone-tailed Hawk

Least Grebe

American Coot

Blue-wing Teal

Killdeer

Least Sandpiper

Berylline Hummingbird

Little Blue Heron

Spotted Sandpiper

Hepatic Tanager

Blue-throated Hummingbird

Tufted Flycatcher

Mexican Violetear

Collared Towhee

Peregrine Falcon

Grey-breasted Wood-wren

Grey-barred Wren

White-tailed Kite

Red-tailed Hawk

Cooper's Hawk

Stellar's Jay

Monday, February 4

Broadbill Hummingbird  

Berylline Hummingbird 

Boucard's Wren 

White-eared Hummingbird 

Grey Silky-flycatcher 

Greater Pewee 

Stellar Jay 

Hepatic Tanager 

Orange-crowned warbler 

Violet-green Swallow 

Rose-breasted Grosbeak 

White-throated Robin 

Western Tanager 

American Robin 

Rufous-capped Brush Finch 

Spotted Towhee 

Bushtit (black-eared) 

Elegant Euphonia

Beautiful Hummingbird

Ruby-throated Hummingbird 

Scrub-Jay (Sumicrast's)

Orange-crowned Warbler 

Nashville Warbler 

Dwarf Vireo 

Warbling Vireo 

Townsend Warbler 

Ladderback Woodpecker 

Audubon Oriole 

Western Tanager 

Violet-crowned Hummingbird 

Slaty Vireo 

Collared Towhee 

Brown-backed Solitaire 

Cinnamon-bellied Flowerpiercer 

Yellow-eyed Junco 

Blue-throated Hummingbird 

Amethyst-throated Hummingbird 

Ruby-crowned Kinglet 

Yellow-rumped Warbler 

Hutton's Vireo 

Lesser Goldfinch 

Hermit Warbler 

Reb Warbler 

Golden-browed Warbler 

Dwarf Jay 

Painted Redstart 

Mexican Chickadee 

Turkey Vulture 

Vermillion Flycatcher 

Rock Pigeon 

Great-tailed Grackle 

Cemetary, Jazz, Birds...

It is Sunday now, I think I last wrote on Friday? About Thursday?  Anyway, I do know that I was just about to head out to the cemetery.  But before I start into that, I have some apartment updates.

We arrived and the two people I knew about, Alfredo, who runs the airbnb site, and his mother, Maria who runs the place, were not here.  A young women gave us our keys.  We got basically no info.  I assured C & J that they would come in and empty the garbage and change the beds.  But when I asked the Nina (as Maria calls her, I don't actually know her name) about garbage, she gave me a couple of bags and showed me where to put it.  It was starting to seem like a no-service situation.  We had to buy our own toilet paper. Carolyn & Joe took their sheets to the laundromat.  I didn't, not being particularly fastidious and willing to use my sheets for at least as week.

But I still wondered, since there was no broom, no mop, no cleaning supplies. It was all a mystery until today.  I went out early.  When I got back at around 1pm, C & J were gone and the Nina was in the apartment moving the double bed out and the two single beds in with the help of a couple of burly men.  Then she and Maria started cleaning.  I ate a quick lunch and then headed down to the Zocolo to meet C & J.  We got back hours later and La Nina was STILL cleaning.  This place is gleaming!!  So now we know, clean linens, clean house on Sundays.

Ok, back to Friday and the cemetery.  Not too much to say, just some photos.

There was a market set up outside of the cemetery so Joe and I replenished our cheese, fruit and veg supplies.  Home for a siesta before we headed out to a jazz recital Joe had found on Oaxaca Events website.  We didn't know what we were going to beyond some free live Jazz.  A bar?  An event hall? Nope, it was a library and the jazz band was a high school band.   But before we knew that, I had to relinquish my bag at the door, my bag with my camera.  I thought it was so people couldn't record. But as soon as the band started playing, a hundred phones and cameras whipped into the air.  So, sorry no photo from me.  Here is all I managed after the fact.  It was a cool venue with the books. And the band was pretty good, Joe assures me (jazz?).

Notice the hep young jazz crowd, all snapping fingers and blue rinses.

After that, we headed down Benito Juarez, a pedestrian street to find some dinner.  Mole #2 - Verde (green).

Here are some street shots:

Blind Accordionist

A puppet painting a chicken, of course.

(Just back.  I took a quick break to go pick up our rental car.  I made Joe come with me for moral support.  We are only 7 minutes away from the rental place but it is very close to downtown so I was a bit scared to drive in the city at night.  Thank god I have gotten somewhat familiar with the streets (getting lost does make one more familiar with more parts of the city!) because I could not read one street sign or find one arrow (every street here is one way).  We made it home alive.  The trickiest part was finding a parking space on our tiny cobblestone street.)

Back to our timeline.  Next morning C & J went on a bit of a hike up a hill nearby.  I went to downtown to buy some souvenirs because J & C are willing to bring back some back some bulky stuff and liquids for me.  I bought a Frida thing for Andrea as requested.  She will have to wait to see what she got.  Plus a kilo of coffee.  The guy used a candle to seal the bags so you know those are secure (not, one had opened before I even got home).

I also went to the post office, the market, the zocolo and a tourist shop or two.

The post office on a Saturday

 

Selling bubbles

More Chickens

 

It was hot out

(Another break for dinner, bacon, avocado, & cheese on tostadas!  Plus I finally got to use my scrubba.   Clothes are hanging, I will report on the results later.)

Another day of walking in the heat had worn me out.  C & J had hiked up the hill to visit the amphitheater (which Joe later read is to be avoided at all costs as it is a 'robber's haven' but apparently it has a nice view)  so they were pretty bagged too.  We had dinner in.  We had bought some black beans.  Carolyn, the (temporarily bacon eating) vegetarian, showed me how to cook them - soak, then boil.  They had been in the fridge for a couple of days so we had to figure out what to do with them after the soak/boil stage.  I threw them in the blender with some salsa, onion, garlic and salt and made as yet fried, refried beans which Carolyn then fried.  The beans on tostadas with tomato, chiapan cheese and more salsa.  SOOOO good.

Carolyn and I were fine to spend the rest of the night in, but restless Joe was ready for a walk to we all wandered over to Llanos park which is fairly close to home.  As we were walking along, a kids train passed us.  A TRAIN!!! (not a real train, but you take what you can get).  I was keen, Joe was willing, Carolyn, the only adult in the crowd, was not excited to wait to pay to then fold her adult body into a tiny train car built for tiny mexican children so she sensibly went home.  Joe and I hopped on the train.  And went round the park.  Fun!  Now as I remember, Joe and I were the only ones who had beer with dinner, this might explain some things...

Joe squished into our tiny train 

View from our 'window'

Ok, last bit.  I want to get this up to today because we are going on a mini-vacation tomorrow (to get away from our main vacation?) to the Tehuacan-Cuicatlan Biosphere Reserve in Puebla State, next to Oaxaca state.

While out walking, J & C had found a library.  This seems to be the place where the ex-pats get together.  They saw this sign and sent me a photo:

Umm, yes please.

So I got up at the crack of dawn on Sunday and met with the Oaxaca birders group.  Now, how's this for a coincidence.  My cousin Donnianne told me about 'Bird Talk' on NPR when I saw her the weekend before that I left.  I had never heard of it but it sounds lovely.  Well, one of the women on the walk is a professional birder who writes for Bird Talk.  I took her picture like a geeky fan.  She said I made her day with my request and story about my cousin who listens to her show.

Francis from NPR's Bird Talk

Of course, not being an idiot, I stuck to Francis and her super smart birdy friends.  We saw some good stuff.  A nighthawk, a woodpecker endemic to Oaxaca, a brown bird that got the pro birders super excited.  and a white hawk that no one could identify, not even Francis!  Here's some bad pictures of birds.

Who are you!!!???

Lesser Nighthawk

That grey blob on top of the cactus is a woodpecker, you just have to believe.

All round a good birding day.  I think we spotted around 25 species, some of which will definitely be new for me.

After that, I met J & C in the Zocalo when they were listening to a big band concert.  I arrived as the last note of the last song were fading across the square.

I arrived as they were clapping at the end

We went for dinner where I had Mole # 3 - Amarillo (Yellow),  not bad but I prefer the red, then green over yellow.

Not very appetizing looking but it tasted ok.

And here is some more street art to finish up,