Botanical Garden, Santo Domingo, Ocotlan market, Joanne is a Catholic now? A wedding, Artisan's Market

I haven't done anything too major since my last post, just a bunch of little forays.  Which means few stories but lots of pictures.  (rereading before posting and that first bit is all lies!  This is a long one)

The next day was my first day on my own.  I had a late start.  I got up and checked online for stuff to do.  I found that the Oaxaca Botanical Garden had a tour in English in an hour. Quick ablutions & breakfast and I headed over.  It is quite close to the apartment.

There was a huge lineup so they divided the group into two.  The guide for my group was an ex-pat who has been living in Oaxaca City for over 20 years and has been visiting since the 60s.

The Botanical Garden is on the grounds of the Church of Santo Domingo, a huge, looming church. Historical info:  The grounds were never used by the Brothers of Santo Domingo as a garden.  They used it as a work area, mostly for building the  church, which of course, took decades.  Then Mexico took over the grounds in the late 19th century and used them for military uses for a century until  1993 (or so) when the city took over and decided on a botanical garden in 1997.  It is quite hard to believe this garden is only 20ish years old.  Some of the trees are huge.  Our guide said many were transplanted. Anyway, here is too many photos.  I kind of lost my head with the flowers.

Nuestra Guia

The Santo Domingo dome through the trees

Hummingbird

After the garden tour ended (two hours!), I decided to wander around the corner to see the church.  But, alas, there were so many shops in the block I had to go through.  I bought a bowl.  Do I need a bowl?  No.  Did I want this bowl? Yes.  Here are some photos from that block.

My new bowl!

This is the side of the church.  Remember that door,
it comes into play next day.

I finally made it to the front of the church.  Then I bought some tejate water.  Our garden guide said it looked disgusting but is tasty and super healthy.  I can attest to the ugly and tasty. I will have to trust on the healthy.  It is a pre-hispanic drink.

the grey scum is a bit off-putting...

Just in case you forget where this church is located. 
Santo Domingo in Oaxaca

I wanted to sit down but shady spots in the street around the market stalls were hard to find.  I finally found a wee spot on a curb and sat down to drink my agua tajete.  I was thinking how lucky I was to find a spot when two little boys plunked themselves down in my shady patch.  No worries.  They left about 8 inches between them and me.  Then a third boy sat down, in that little spot, granted he had a little bum but we were all squished together pretty tight in our foot and a half of shade.

Pigeons:

This was a particularly pretty pigeon (don't judge, they are pretty in the sun)
but I couldn't focus fast enough.

After I finally made it to the front of the church, I couldn't get in.  The door was closed.  So, I headed down Alcala Street, a closed street with lots of people and vendors and shops.  It leads directly to the Zocalo. More photos:

Shoe shine habits cannot start too early

 In the Zocalo, I was on the lookout (hearout?) for Joe's whistle guy.  I heard him!  So, I headed over to the crowd but it wasn't the whistle guy, it was even better.  This busker was whistling with his mouth and using toys to make some amazing music. (I was sorry Joe wasn't there, I know he would have loved it.)  He had a variety of instruments strapped to his body and used a collection of squeaky toys to add emphasis.  No whistle for Joe though.

Home after that. I used my scrubba for a dark load.  So far, no complaints.  I read for a while and hit bed early.  Have I mentioned my book.  It is "A Suitable Boy' but Vikram Seth, Volume one.  I bought it because it seemed like the longest best bet in Sally Anne.  Well, it is really good.  But I am realizing, I need volume two.  Barely available in Canada, let alone in Mexico.  I am going to have to A) wait until I get home, and A) buy the giant full book (wikipedia says it was, at the time of publication in 1993, the longest book ever published in English, 1300 pages. I only have 650 of them!).  They have a copy at Russell books so at least I will eventually be able to find out who Leta marries!

Next day, I woke up with mosquito bites all over my legs.  Joe and Carolyn have only just left.  A coincidence?  I think not!  The only logical conclusion - Jazz is a natural mosquito repellent.  Yup, that tracks.   (Haha, I can hear Joe objecting vehemently to everything I just said :)

I didn't have any plans again so I looked online again.  There are all sorts of little towns around Oaxaca that have craft specialties and special days for market.  I discovered, one of the best markets, in Ocotlan, is on Friday.  It was Friday!

Well, good bloody luck trying to figure out how to get there on the internet.  Calle Bustamante (maybe) was all I could find.  So, I asked La Nina.  She said the bus leaves from Bustamante too.  But I couldn't find it on my map so she kind of pointed at a zone to search.  Turns out Bustamante is three names past Alcala, the main tourist street which passes directly through the Zocalo.  For anyone else looking for the Ocotlan bus station it is on the corner of Bustamente and Xochitl. There are actually two stations on that corner, just ask (or look for the bus with the Ocotlan sign).

The bus was a nice little van.  I sat up front with the driver.  I had no idea how much it cost (they don't take payment until you arrive at your destination) or how far it was.  FYI, 30 pesos, and about an hour away.

I didn't buy much at the market.  It was huge.  The prices were definitely better than the 20th of November market.  But I just bought a few little gift for next Christmas. I ate some tacos and then took the bus home again a couple of hours later.

One way to keep little kids corralled in a busy market, put them in a basket

I've become obsessed with 'chicken crafts' (is chicken craft a thing?)

I also bought a bag.  Do I need a bag?  No.  Did I want this bag?  Yes.

Did I do anything after Ocotlan?  Let me check the pictures.  Nope, back to my book, the scrubba (light load this time) and bed.

Next morning (today), yup, you guessed it, to the internet!.  I found a lecture on Archaeology and Pre-hispanic Music at 10am.  Sounds interesting and close to home. But when I arrived the doors were locked and no one was around.  I waited until 5 to but still nothing.  I was only a block from Santo Domingo so I decided to go see if it was open.  This time, the side door was open and a woman was setting up a table outside (I assumed for tourist souvenirs) so I figured I could go in.  Which is what I did.  There were a few people in the pews (normal) but I felt uncomfortable standing beside them taking pictures so I sat in a pew behind to appreciate the beautiful gold altar and painted ceiling.

As I was sitting there, all of the lights came on.  I noticed a bunch of people standing around the back (actually the front if you were outside).   La Virgen appeared!  There was some sort of special (I think) procession arriving for mass!  The congregation followed, all holding lit candles and each with a baby Jesus in their arms.  I was trying to take a couple of photos without being a total jerk.  I was totally entranced.  Until they passed me and I noticed that the doors had been closed.  Oh oh, I was in for the long haul.

My pew filled up with a mother, grandmother and a young daughter, all with their own baby Jesuses. (it was all I could do not to take their picture, they were so lovely).  Nothing to do but sit through the sermon.  It was so nice, especially since I couldn't understand anything being said.  But lots of singing and looking at people and enjoying the beautiful church.  I could almost be convinced to join if it weren't for all of the standing (and believing in nonsensical stuff).

After the priest started sermoning, I let my mind wander.  Why do these people worship in a church full of pictures of middle eastern (but portrayed as white) men?  Maybe this is why the Virgen is so popular here.  Mexico is not technically a matriarchy but it close.  The women here are strong and powerful in a background kind of way.  It makes sense.  Mary put up with a lot of crap because of men trying to kill her baby (and eventually succeeding).  But she stayed strong, protecting her family at all costs, even when the system won, she didn't bend.  Much like every Mexican woman I have ever met.  Life is hard, they keep going.

But then the sermon was over.  I'm sure I stuck out like a sore thumb, not only because I was literally the tallest person in my row (I KNOW! how often does that happen - never!).  But the ladies who surrounded me all turned to shake my hand when it came time to greet our neighbours. I threw in my tithe but skipped communion.  And then it was over.  Another on the sly (and therefore blurry) photo of the Virgin on the altar).

Here is what was going on, Day of the Candles and Eucarchist? 

Right across from the Church was the Ice Cream Museum!  What's a girl to do?  Turns out it is just an ice cream shop, no museum to be found, but at least they had interesting flavours.  I took full advantage of the loose 'sampling' policy.  I ended up with something with cinnamon (and nuts?).  It reminded me of Rachelle's cinnamon ice cream suggestion from Vietnam!  I sat and ate my ice cream while watching this wedding party pose for their photos (not mine)

It was still only 11 in the morning so I headed to the Zocalo.  Then I remembered that there is an artisan's market a few blocks past the 20th of November.  So, I went there to check it out (for research for mom, of course).  Here's some women selling blouses along the Alcala.

Then the market!  So colourful. And way cheaper than the 20th of November.  Even cheaper than Ocotlan.  I bought a blanket!  Did I need this blanket?  No.  Did I want this blanket?  Yes.  This line of questioning is getting quite rude!  (The blanket is the same as the ones on the beds here and I was covetting hard).  I also found some bird whistles.  I wasn't sure what exactly Joe was looking for so I bought two (for about a buck each), they are whistles and shaped like birds, so...

I bought this guy.
And to answer your questions, No & Yes.

Oh my, I didn't think I had done much so I saved up a couple of days but now look how long this is getting!  Ok, I will try to wrap up.  I stopped at the 20th of November market for lunch, Mole # 4 - Coloradito.  It was similar to Rojo.

I went with enchilada this time

As I was sitting there, enjoying my enchilada con mole coloradito y pollo, who should walk up?  The whistle guy!!  I knew as soon as I saw his whistles that he was the one.  So, a third whistle for Joe (this one was less than a dollar!). He gave me some excellent advice about the care of my new whistle which is either clean it with water OR never get it wet with water.  My Spanish could use some more work.  Sorry Joe, water or don't, you have a 50/50 chance of it working out.

Whistle guy!

Ok, last thing, I mostly promise.  As I was walking home, I came upon a wedding procession!  Joe has seen one last Saturday and I was super jealous.  Well, here was my chance! Wedding processions have the wedding party, guests, paper mache bride and groom, dancers and a band, all walking along the street.  Spectacular!

I am going to stop here but not post.  I am heading back to town.  If I see anything good, I will attach to this post since the next two days are my bird guide days and those should be stand alone.  BRB.

I'm back.  Downtown is BONKERS!  It is bustling and full of music on a regular visit but a Saturday night - yoinks!  Alcala was packed, plugged with another wedding which I couldn't even get close to. The street was mostly tourists from what I can see.   But as I got to the Zocalo, that's where the Mexicans are.  There was a high school band, completely with wind and brass (are those the same thing?) with just a drum to accompany.  Joe, you should never have gone home!   So much music.  Every other little band in the square was trying to compete with multiple tubas and saxophones.

Alcala 

Brass band

Zocalo

Chicken craft!

Ok, that's defInitely it!  I won't even finish up with some street art, I'll save it for next time.  I have to be up at 5 to be ready to leave for bird day-camp at 6am.  One last picture.  I was feeling lonely so I bought these two little plants (since no kittens were available).

Ok, one street art.