Museums, so many museums

Today, I wanted to see as many of the museums in town that I just haven't gotten to yet.  I wrote a bunch down and headed out. They were all pretty impressive, I have to give it to Mexico, they really know how to display art.  All were free except two which were extremely affordable (20 pesos and 55 pesos).

 First, the Textile Museum. Free.

There is a temporary pompom display.  I have a million pictures of pompoms hanging in the courtyard. From below, from above, from eye level. Here you go

Plus, some non-pompom displays.

The cotton room,with cotton tree

Second, the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Oaxaca (MACO).  20 pesos.

Lots of interesting displays. 

I particularly liked this room.  They had a sound track of water dripping and a video of water.  And this hanging ring of photos was beautiful.

Third, Art Gallery of Oaxaca.  Free

This one was paintings as opposed to the sculptures at MACO.  It was pretty disorganized, I think they were moving stuff around but that let me poke around back rooms.

There were two courtyards (all of the museums have courtyards which makes me yearn for one here, this AirBNB just has a parking lot)

The front courtyard was covered and had art in it.

The back one was empty but this was the 'ceiling'.

Fourth, Centre Fotographia.  Free.  

The artist on display concentrated on change, often revolution and war, with particular emphasis on Mexican/American relations since the 70s to present.  

This one is titled 'La Idiota'.  The artist notes the
Trump supporter wearing a Mexican Mariachi hat.

Fifth, Casa Benito Juarez.  55 pesos

This is where the very popular President Benito Juarez lived from 1819 to 1823.  He learned bookbinding while living with this family. This allowed him to go to eventually got to law school, and the rest is history.

Book binding tools

The courtyard

At some point between a couple of those museums, I went to the 20th of November market to get some lunch.  I have two more moles to find.  I went yesterday and everyone told me that no one serves Chicilo or Manchmanteles in the Market.  But I asked around anyway.  One lady told me she would make Chicilo for me tomorrow (now today) so I went back.  And she had made it!  But it wasn't ready yet.  

Oh, I was tired and ready to sit down so I headed back to the Zocalo because there are lots of places to sit in the shade.  As I was waiting my media-hora (half-hour) for my mole to be ready, I remembered on our free walking tour, that the guide mentioned some beautiful murals on the staircase of the State Government Building.  But the building is blocked from the public because of a decades long protest out front.  So, I sidled up to one of the guards and using my winning dumb tourist smile, I asked I could go in to see the murals.  Well, he had to ask multiple layers of bosses but eventually, I was allowed in.  And since I was in there anyway, I took a photo or two of the gorgeous interior of the building's courtyard.  It is all green stone, from the Oaxacan quarries. 

Looking up the staircase

The left panel shows the indigenous history, crafts, life before the Spanish arrived

The centre panel depicts Benito Juarez and other change making politicians.

The panel to the right shows Spanish colonialism, churches, nation building etc.

And the courtyard, this is only a portion, it was huge!

Ok, that killed enough time, now lunch. Chichilo is like Mole Negro but salty, not sweet (so I guess not like Mole Negro which has a chocolate base).  Anyway it was very good.  

The lady (Surita?, at least that's the name of her restaurant) who made
the Chichilo for me.

The only issue with my lunch was the lady in the wheelchair who planted herself beside me. Carolyn and Joe will remember this lady.  She rolled up to me one day in the Zocalo and just started yelling at me.  Not mad I don't think, just yelling about something or other.  Well, here she was again.  Fortunatley, this time she was yelling at any man who walked by, not me.  But she was definitely mad at them.  There was a lot of swear words (nobody's mother's virtue was left uninsulted!)

This is my 6th mole.  Unless a miracle happens, I won't get Manchamanteles, the mole with the fruit.  My chichilo lady said if I come back, she will make it for me.  I saw a book in my travels called 'My Search for the Seventh Mole'.  Now I understand!  It is hard to find.  

So, that was my day today.  I packed up some of the dry food I still had left over and a few other things we bought, oil, rice, beans, shampoo, soap, a towel, our little scissors and so much more.  I packed it all in the wonky backpack that Joe and Carolyn left behind.  I took it in search of someone begging.  I have seen many young mothers with their babies sitting with a cup out. I figured they could use these things more than my airbnb landlords.  And since there wasn't a grain of salt or a drop of oil or any other basics in the place when we arrived, I assumed they took whatever is left over.  

I eventually found a young woman, selling chicklets with a baby and a toddler in tow at 8pm.  I explained that I had a few things and was going home tomorrow.  Since she had two ninos, could she use them.  Yes.  What about the bag.  She can have that too.  Se Vaya Bien.  Buenas Noches.  And that was that.  No pictures.

Oh dear, it is almost 10pm and I have to pack.  I am out all day tomorrow.  For some lunatic reason, I booked an all day tour that is supposed to get back to town at 4pm.  My flight leaves at 6:45. I have to get back to my apartment, grab my bags (which better be packed) and catch a taxi to the airport.  So, yea.  Tanya, if I'm not at the Opera on Friday, this may be why.  La idiota, indeed.  

Here is one street art:

Zocalo mostly, Mercado de Abastos, and some other stuff

After our day with En Via, mom and I went home but not for long.  It was Sunday evening so we headed to the Zocalo to see what was happening.  It was busy!

Those are balloon 'rockets' that every kid in the Zocalo
seems to have to toss in the air.

Just as we were heading out, we noticed some young people putting on costumes in front of the Cathedral.  We decided to wait and see what they were up to.

Unfortunately, once they were suited up, they moved from the front of the church to the side, with way worse lighting.  My camera did not like all of the fast motion in the dark light but let's call the pictures 'artistic'.

The dancers started with 12 or so men dressed as 12 or so old men.  They used their 'walking sticks' to make a lot of  rhythmic noise while they twirled and marched about.

Next up was a couple in traditional dress who danced and spun and generally looked lovely and graceful.

And then a 'wedding' party, with bride, groom and a line of caballeros.

That was super fun and only cost a donation (or three).

Next day was Sunday, mom's last full day in Oaxaca.  We went to Monte Alban.  My third visit but the first where I wasn't concentrating on birds.  We actually stopped and read the signs.  I didn't take many pictures though since we have already covered this before.

Mom at Monte Alban

Many carving of castrated men (likely those conquered in war and
sacrificed, in brutal fashion).  

After that, things were pretty low key.  We went back to the 20th of November market so mom could pick a few last things.  We had beer and seafood tacos in the Zocalo.

This is where I said 'I wonder when my next flex day is'
Home and work are already invading my brain, a week before I leave Mexico

Monday, mom's last day. We headed to the Oaxaca Lending Library so mom could buy a book.  She had read every book in the apartment but was not willing to get involved in the 650 pages of volume one of 'A Suitable Boy'.   I bought tickets for a Thursday event which I will tell you about later. I made lunch.  Tuna pasta salad.  Time to start using up some supplies!

Then, as mom's time in Mexico was almost over, we went out for a beer and a snack.

This is guacamole with chapulines (fried crickets, a Oaxacan specialty).
Mom couldn't leave without eating some crickets!

I won't post this yet.  I'm sure I will be doing something tomorrow to make this a bit longer.

Now it is Wednesday.  To the photos to see what I have been up to.

On Tuesday, I decided to see as much of the city attractions that I had ignored for the last month.  First, the giant Mercado de Abastos in the SW corner of the city.  I passed through the Zocalo to get there.  There was some sort of 'intercultural' event going on.  There was some singing but mostly just young people yelling into a microphone. Protest?  Oration demonstration?  No idea.  I actually passed by three times and it was going on ALL day.  There were so many young people in traditional dress, it was hard not to take more pictures.

To the huge market where I bought NOTHING!  Did I mention that I started packing.  Yea, that blanket AND tablecloth are going to be trouble.

Back through the Zocalo.  More interculturalness and a Tejate to drink.

Then home because I had a ticket to go to a Oaxaca Lending Library lecture on bird songs.  I met up with some of my bird group ladies and had a chance to say goodbye to them.  I am really tempted to come back next year.  We'll see.

This is Suzanne from bird group who organized this lecture

And this is Jose Sosa Lopez, song bird guy, who got his PHD in Canada.

Then a wander back down Alcala to the Zocalo.  This time, there was a 'parade' but it wasn't a wedding, it was a proposal.  With a tourist couple no less.  I'm not sure how I would feel about a loud, crowded, hour long moving proposal but to each her own.  She said yes, by the way.

One more pass through the Zocalo and the intercultural extravaganza and to check out the full moon through the trees.

I think I will end it here.  Today was a lot of photos (FIVE museums in five hours) so I will do that later (not that I have much later).

Here is some street art: