San Juan Teitipac, flight home

I have been home for a week, back to work, got a cat, you know the usual.  But I do want to finish this blog up with my last day in Oaxaca and my flight home.

As you may recall, I was checking the Oaxaca Lending Library for their talks and various random events.  Well, I saw a day trip that seemed interesting but it was on Thursday, the day of my flight home.  It was scheduled for 8-4.  My flight was for 6:45.  I decided I could maybe do it.  Then my better judgement/critical thinking functions were completely overwritten when I went in to see if there were any seats left.  I was pretty sure it would be sold out and then it would be easy, no can do.  But instead of no seats, there was one left.  And I got in just before some other guy was asking about the same tour.  My competitive side came out and I took the ticket.  I am a jerk.  A jerk who will cut off her own nose to spite that other guy who just wants to go on a day trip to San Juan Teitipac for their Language festival.

I packed the night before. I looked up alternate ways back to Oaxaca in case things went wrong (no bus, only taxis for 400-600 pesos, more than I paid for the whole day).  I showed up at 7:45 for the bus.  I asked the leader, will we actually get back at 4?  She said, and I quote "We are aiming for 5"  Hmmm.  I mentioned that I had a flight home at 6:45.  She was the first of many who expressed surprise that I am such an idiot.  She mentioned that the last time they came, there was a road closure that delayed them a few hours.  Hmmm.  I hadn't considered that even if I took a taxi, I still might not be able to get back.  Oh well.  I went anyway.

San Juan Teitipac is only about an hour away from Oaxaca city so we arrived a little after 9am. Nothing in Mexico starts that early but we were greeted by some town official (I recognized him as another 'uses and customs' 'volunteer' but no one mentioned this specifically).  We got a little talk about the history of the town and then a visit to the church.  Remember back when I visited the church in Teotitlan with all of the flowers.  It turns out that the flowers are placed on the alters by more uses and customs volunteers who are assigned an alter.  This church was the same, so many flowers.  Also, there were some original paintings of the Passion of Christ from the brothers who built the church in the 16th century.

Then we headed back to the basketball court/performance venue.  But first there is a parade.  And we are invited to participate!  The visiting ladies can carry candles.  That sounds easy.  Nope, not easy, those candles were huge!

No worries, I was able to take many photos of the parade, even with one hand taken up with a giant flower candle. It was so hot and those poor dancers had to stop FOUR times to dance for like 10  minutes each time.  We did a 12 block square that took over hour.  None of the non-tourist participants were smiling by the end.

Finally back to the venue.  But no, first to the food stalls for early lunch (is 10:30 early lunch or late breakfast - can huaraches be brunch?)

Then some weird ritual where we all had to stand (so I assume it was religious, since religion always involve standing up for some reason) and point to the four directions and thank someone for flowers? conchs?

Finally, dancing!

Another food break.  But the group organizer came over and told me that the wheelchair van was going to head back to town early and did I want to go with them.  Umm, yes!  So, I crammed in the back behind the wheelchairs and made it home by 3:30!  Time to even change my clothes and eat an egg.

Taxi to the airport by 4:30 where, of course, I discovered that my flight was delayed by an hour.  Not a problem,  I had a book.   I checked one bag but my carry on was very heavy.  I may have bought too much.  But I was sure that I would be offered the chance to check my carry on at the gate.  Unfortunately, that offer never came so I was stuck with that million pound bag for the whole time!

My flight out of Mexico left on time - 1:01 am.  I was smart (this time, there's always a first time).  I took a gravol on the tarmac and never turned on the tv.  I was asleep minutes after we were in the air.  And I didn't wake up until we landed.  I missed the 3am dinner/breakfast.  It was perfect.

Perfect until I got to my gate in Vancouver.  Flight cancelled.  I was rebooked on the 10:30am (instead of 8:30).  Since I was now back in Canada, I texted Judy who was picking me up.  No problem.  But then that flight was delayed til 11am.  Still good.  Then 11:20.  Nope, Judy was out, she had to be at work in Oak Bay at 1.  Scramble to find someone, anyone who wasn't working in the middle of a workday (Friday).

Then they delayed to 11:30 and then 11:45.  Bahh!  I was so tired and I had finished my book in Mexico city (never take a large-font book on vacation!).  And my heavy, heavy bag made it difficult to walk around so I just sat there and bitched about my flight on Facebook.

Fortunately, Alisma was my saviour.  She cancelled a meeting and left work mid-day to come and pick me up and take me home.  I had a quick nap before I headed out to the opera (it was good but I had a hard time staying away through Act 3).

Next day, I was at the SPCA for opening and got myself a little cat. Her name is Pigeon.

Here is the  very last picture I took in Mexico.  Street Art!

See you all next time.  

Museums, so many museums

Today, I wanted to see as many of the museums in town that I just haven't gotten to yet.  I wrote a bunch down and headed out. They were all pretty impressive, I have to give it to Mexico, they really know how to display art.  All were free except two which were extremely affordable (20 pesos and 55 pesos).

 First, the Textile Museum. Free.

There is a temporary pompom display.  I have a million pictures of pompoms hanging in the courtyard. From below, from above, from eye level. Here you go

Plus, some non-pompom displays.

The cotton room,with cotton tree

Second, the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Oaxaca (MACO).  20 pesos.

Lots of interesting displays. 

I particularly liked this room.  They had a sound track of water dripping and a video of water.  And this hanging ring of photos was beautiful.

Third, Art Gallery of Oaxaca.  Free

This one was paintings as opposed to the sculptures at MACO.  It was pretty disorganized, I think they were moving stuff around but that let me poke around back rooms.

There were two courtyards (all of the museums have courtyards which makes me yearn for one here, this AirBNB just has a parking lot)

The front courtyard was covered and had art in it.

The back one was empty but this was the 'ceiling'.

Fourth, Centre Fotographia.  Free.  

The artist on display concentrated on change, often revolution and war, with particular emphasis on Mexican/American relations since the 70s to present.  

This one is titled 'La Idiota'.  The artist notes the
Trump supporter wearing a Mexican Mariachi hat.

Fifth, Casa Benito Juarez.  55 pesos

This is where the very popular President Benito Juarez lived from 1819 to 1823.  He learned bookbinding while living with this family. This allowed him to go to eventually got to law school, and the rest is history.

Book binding tools

The courtyard

At some point between a couple of those museums, I went to the 20th of November market to get some lunch.  I have two more moles to find.  I went yesterday and everyone told me that no one serves Chicilo or Manchmanteles in the Market.  But I asked around anyway.  One lady told me she would make Chicilo for me tomorrow (now today) so I went back.  And she had made it!  But it wasn't ready yet.  

Oh, I was tired and ready to sit down so I headed back to the Zocalo because there are lots of places to sit in the shade.  As I was waiting my media-hora (half-hour) for my mole to be ready, I remembered on our free walking tour, that the guide mentioned some beautiful murals on the staircase of the State Government Building.  But the building is blocked from the public because of a decades long protest out front.  So, I sidled up to one of the guards and using my winning dumb tourist smile, I asked I could go in to see the murals.  Well, he had to ask multiple layers of bosses but eventually, I was allowed in.  And since I was in there anyway, I took a photo or two of the gorgeous interior of the building's courtyard.  It is all green stone, from the Oaxacan quarries. 

Looking up the staircase

The left panel shows the indigenous history, crafts, life before the Spanish arrived

The centre panel depicts Benito Juarez and other change making politicians.

The panel to the right shows Spanish colonialism, churches, nation building etc.

And the courtyard, this is only a portion, it was huge!

Ok, that killed enough time, now lunch. Chichilo is like Mole Negro but salty, not sweet (so I guess not like Mole Negro which has a chocolate base).  Anyway it was very good.  

The lady (Surita?, at least that's the name of her restaurant) who made
the Chichilo for me.

The only issue with my lunch was the lady in the wheelchair who planted herself beside me. Carolyn and Joe will remember this lady.  She rolled up to me one day in the Zocalo and just started yelling at me.  Not mad I don't think, just yelling about something or other.  Well, here she was again.  Fortunatley, this time she was yelling at any man who walked by, not me.  But she was definitely mad at them.  There was a lot of swear words (nobody's mother's virtue was left uninsulted!)

This is my 6th mole.  Unless a miracle happens, I won't get Manchamanteles, the mole with the fruit.  My chichilo lady said if I come back, she will make it for me.  I saw a book in my travels called 'My Search for the Seventh Mole'.  Now I understand!  It is hard to find.  

So, that was my day today.  I packed up some of the dry food I still had left over and a few other things we bought, oil, rice, beans, shampoo, soap, a towel, our little scissors and so much more.  I packed it all in the wonky backpack that Joe and Carolyn left behind.  I took it in search of someone begging.  I have seen many young mothers with their babies sitting with a cup out. I figured they could use these things more than my airbnb landlords.  And since there wasn't a grain of salt or a drop of oil or any other basics in the place when we arrived, I assumed they took whatever is left over.  

I eventually found a young woman, selling chicklets with a baby and a toddler in tow at 8pm.  I explained that I had a few things and was going home tomorrow.  Since she had two ninos, could she use them.  Yes.  What about the bag.  She can have that too.  Se Vaya Bien.  Buenas Noches.  And that was that.  No pictures.

Oh dear, it is almost 10pm and I have to pack.  I am out all day tomorrow.  For some lunatic reason, I booked an all day tour that is supposed to get back to town at 4pm.  My flight leaves at 6:45. I have to get back to my apartment, grab my bags (which better be packed) and catch a taxi to the airport.  So, yea.  Tanya, if I'm not at the Opera on Friday, this may be why.  La idiota, indeed.  

Here is one street art: